Showing posts with label Trousers. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Trousers. Show all posts

Sunday, 12 April 2015

Front and Back. Front to Back. Front and...

I'm not the only one who has trouble fitting trousers. It's a common lament on the blogs I read. Only Roobeedoo has managed to nail a pair on the first outing. I'm thrilled for her and I hope I can find my perfect pattern too.
My first attempt, started in January, was a full legged pair, Vogue 8751. I decided to insert use a back zipper because, for me, fly fronts don't always reflect how well something fits. The back zipper was a royal pain, taking me three attempts and I regretted trying to be clever;the fly front would have been much easier.
The results are not what I'd hoped for and I'm not sure if I like the pattern enough to try fixing the problems.


some pulling in the back
But the real kicker was the way the yoke did(n't) fit. I think the pattern was made for someone whose hipline suddenly turns into a waist. Mine tend to taper in gradually.

plus, the pockets stick out
OK. Next. Vintage McCalls 5408 shorts with length added to the legs and pockets.
a prominsing start.
This turned out to be quite hilarious. Again, I did the back zipper for the previously mentioned reason, and again, I should have done a fly front, but if I had, I wouldn't have learned something very interesting...
First off, the fit was verrrrry strange. The back was fine, but the front was incredibly baggy. I puzzled about who this could have been drafted for, because they look very close fitting in the picture. I regret not taking a photo, becuase it reminded me of this (without the pointy bits).

Needless to say, I had to take in the front quite a bit.
The back gaped, so I added a couple of darts. Then I found I had comehow cut the waistband too small
so I added a tab.

The fit at that point was not too bad, tho' the back was strangely low,
 There is a bit of a gap in the back because I didn't pull the zipper fully closed
 while the front was unusually high.
plus the pockets pull in the front a bit.

I'm not sure when the dime dropped, tho' I'm sure the experience among you have realized all along where I've been going with this...

Yes indeed. I'd somehow confused with the front and the back. 
The original  front with added darts and some pull lines.

the original back, that still doesn't fit despite all my adjustments..
I should be slightly offended to realize that because I have no derriere the front fits as a back better than the back would, but this is quite amusing.

So, modified the pattern so I had two 'fronts'.


And tried again. These aren't bad, I just need to take about an inch out of the rise so the waistband sits at my waist.
The weird lighter area is from sitting on my bicycle saddle



I can't believe it's taken this long to get my first vintage pattern sewn and I'm starting to think I should just stick to skirts. I've marked my changed on the pattern pieces and will revisit this trouser thing later.

Monday, 20 January 2014

Next!

 I'll be brief.


 OOP Vogue 2690 and a remnant of grey denim.
 Take one. Poufy at the upper hip.
Seam straightened to remove same.


 Pulls strangely at the derrière.
 Curve replaced.
 Wacky pulling on the legs. Consulted Palmer and Pletsch.
Seam released at inner thigh.
SIde seam curve taken in again.
 This isn't any better.

After a couple of weeks of tweaking, I'm done with these. They are now in the 'to be donated' pile. I found a pair of mens woolen trousers at the MCC on Saturday. I took in the waist by about three inches and they fit much better than this pair without nearly all the futzing around. I may try another pair, or I may just stick to skirts. Gah!

Sunday, 21 April 2013

Out of the Darkness

 My sewing room is very cold in the winter. I can deal with that; I put on a couple of sweaters and a toque and even turn on my little space heater if necessay.
Now that it is spring I haven't been able to deal with the dark. Here, in the winter, it is dark when I leave for work in the morning and dark when I come home. The only time I see daylight is on the weekend and I don't want to be in my sewing room with its one tiny window.
Last weekend, when the Geek wasn't home, I moved my stuff into the living room.

We don't use the living room much, so first I had to get her veneer stash off the coffee table.
 


 Those veneers are gorgeous! I was temporarily sidetracked reading the labels on the back of each piece to find out what kind of wood they are.

And once I was in a brighter space, I finished the EvaDress trousers I cut out when I visited my parents in February.
I made these before, and made the adjustments I'd considered then, such as narrowing the waistband to about half of the original. I am extremely short-waisted; the bottom of my ribs sit only 2.5 cm above the very top of my hip bone.

I'm not terribly sure how I well I like these. Perhaps it is the way I have photographed them (I am a self-conscious model), but I think they make me look stumpy. And the back view looks...interesting. I may have to work on that. I will also have to lengthen them a bit. That's what happens when you measure the length from a pair of pants that, you realize later, are also too short.
I am thrilled tho, since winter seems so very, very reluctant to leave us, to have some pants to wear to work. I am tired of being a woolen onion.

And what of the first pair I made? They have been turned into a pair of shorts.

Thursday, 24 January 2013

Two Types of Trousers

 I have lacked trousers for awhile now. Finally, around Thanksgiving I decided to take action.

This pattern is from Schnitt Vision



Schnitt Vision allows you to customize patterns to your own measurements. The only problem, it is all in German. Thankfully the Geek is German, so she talked me through the process.
The fabric is a wool blend I bought at a garage sale up the street. I chose not to add the pockets. I wasn't sure I would like the pants -they have such a low rise and I am not used to that.

They fit well (as you would hope) except for a small little ...pouchy area... about three inches below the waist.
More visible from the side.

I modified the pants and the pattern and the 'pouch' is gone.


No, I'm not praying.
See? I've never worn pants with a zipper shorter than my little finger!


I might make these again; perhaps in a heavy weight knit or in a fabric with a bit of stretch. These pants tend to get a bit baggy during the course of the day and the 'sliding south' feeling is a little distracting.

On the other end of the spectrum, Eva Dress 3322.


I cut out this size according to my measurement. There is a LOT of ease in this pattern.

So, I took the pants apart, cut them down by three sizes, and took an inch out of the rise.

Of course, that meant they were about an inch to short (which works with my beat-up Birkenstocks, but not with most of my other shoes.


I have no idea what I was doing with my belly sticking out. And ironing would have been a good thing.
I added cuffs to compensate for the lack of length.

Unfortunately the cuffs are cut across the grain but I'm considering that a design feature.
I like both pair, but they could not be more different. (How's that for stating the obvious?) I have another pair in the queue -more middle of the road.